From Farm to Laksa

In this episode of Taste of Place Anna chats with:

• Dr. Michael R. Dove, a professor of social ecology at Yale who has done extensive research in farming and Borneo.

• Larry Sait, former member of the Malaysian Pepper Board. 

• Mandy Yin, an author, food writer, chef and owner of London-based restaurant, Sambla Shiok Laksa Bar.

• Tom Heale, chef and owner of a London-based vegan restaurant, Naifs.

Here are some highlights:

The Curse of the Historic Kingdom of Banjar

• Dr. Dove explains that early rulers in Southeast Asia wanted to prohibit the cultivation of pepper because it was perceived as a mortal threat to Indigenous kingdoms in the region.

Swidden Agriculture

• Anna explains that swidden agriculture is also known as shifting cultivation, a pattern of farming that rotates the areas that are being farmed so that the soil can be left to regenerate. It is a practice still used by Indigenous peoples of Borneo, the Dayaks.

• Dr. Dove highlights that swidden is a perfect adaptation for very wet, challenging and unpredictable rainforest environments like Borneo.

• He explains that while Borneo officials view the Dayak and their practices as primitive and destructive, the Dayak actually have a rich history of international trade spanning centuries.

A Trade Commodity

• Dr. Dove talks about how pepper is not often used in local dishes but rather seen as an export, something grown for distant use by other people.

The Malaysian Pepper Board

• Anna discusses the Malaysian Pepper Board, its founding in 2007, and its emphasis on maintaining a healthy supply of Sarawak pepper compared to its competitors.

• Larry adds that the Malaysian Pepper Board is in charge of quality control for Sarawak peppers.

A Visit to the Pepper Farms

• Anna and Mandy reminisce about their trip to Kapit in August 2019, where they visited Sarawak pepper farms.

Sarawak Pepper in Practice

• Tom talks about how he was first introduced to Sarawak pepper, and how he uses it in his own restaurant.

• Tom walks Anna and listeners through the taste of Sarawak pepper.

Cross-Cultural Borrowing

• Tom emphasizes the importance of not appropriating something that is borrowed from other cultures but rather doing so in a respectful and authentic way.

What Does Sarawak Pepper Taste Like?

• Mandy gives her own description of what Sarawak pepper tastes like to her.

• Mandy ties Sarawak pepper and her trip to Kapit into feelings of nostalgia and her childhood.

The International Trade of Pepper

• Anna addresses the need for more transparency in the marketing and trade of Sarawak pepper with a greater emphasis on the non-white people who labor to produce the pepper that we consume.