Episode 4 -

Why All the Bananas at the Grocery Store Taste the Same

There are more than 1,000 different types of bananas in the world. So why do we only have one type of banana in the grocery store? This episode is an exploration into the rich diversity of bananas and plantains — and why North American grocery stores only sell one type.

In this episode of Climate Cuisine, Clarissa chats with:

Here are some highlights:

The Difference Between a Banana and a Plantain

  • First, Clarissa clarifies the difference between a plantain and a banana. A plantain is a type of banana, but larger, starchier, and with much thicker skin. 

  • Von describes the flavor variances of plantains and how they are used in different dishes in Puerto Rico depending on the stage of maturation they’re in.

Inescapable Nature

  • Rob shares how human hubris was a catalyst for his book, Never Out of Season, in which he offers the story of the banana as a microcosm of the industrial food system at large.

  • As a reminder that humans don’t have as much control as we think we do, he references the crops grown in the International Space Station. The fact that pathogens were found among the crops showed that even in one of the most controlled environments, those fields were unable to escape complete isolation.

How Cavendish Became Ubiquitous

  • Rob tells us the story of the Cavendish banana, tracing the shifts in banana flavor from diverse and complex to more and more one-note. While today we have Cavendish, in the early 1900s, it was the Gros Michel or the “Big Mike” that was the most-planted cultivar of banana in the world… until disease struck.

  • Using the story of the banana as an example, Rob shows why it is ill-advised to depend solely on monoculture while completely eschewing diversity.

  • Clarissa also relates the history of bloodshed that occurred because of the pursuit for the perfect banana, culminating in the Banana Massacre. 

Bananas as Divine Offerings

  • Often associated with fertility or bounty, the banana has a place in many rituals in India. Meenakshi informs us of one of those rituals, in which a particular variety of banana was chosen for a practical reason. 

The Dominican Love for Plantains

  • Vanessa talks about the Dominican love for plantains. 

  • She introduces us to mangú, one of the most popular dishes in the Dominican Republic. Made using mashed green plantains, the dish is often served with fried Dominican salami, fried eggs, and fried cheese.

The Longtime Use of Plantains and Bananas in South Asia

  • South Asians have been cooking with bananas and plantains for a long, long time. Vidya provides examples of their uses. For example, for Jains who cannot consume potatoes, the popular street food pav bhaji is made with plantains instead.

  • Aside from the fruit, banana leaves are also a staple in South Asian cuisines—both for cooking with and for eating with. The leaves can be wrapped around a savory filling, as in Dutch Burgher lamprais. They can even be used as plates during a wedding!

Changing the Food System

  • Rob’s tips for how to positively engage with the food system, including searching for flavor and buying from local farmers.

Guests

  • Von Diaz

    Von Diaz is a writer, documentary producer, and author of Coconuts & Collards: Recipes and Stories from Puerto Rico to the Deep South.

    Born in Puerto Rico and raised in Atlanta, GA, she explores food, culture, and identity. In addition to her debut culinary memoir, she has contributed recipes and essays to a number of cookbooks and anthologies, including America The Great Cookbook (Weldon Owen, 2017), Feed the Resistance (Chronicle Books, 2017), Women on Food (Abrams Book, October 2019), Tasty Pride (Penguin Random House, Fall 2019), Rage Baking (Simon & Schuster, February 2020), and Sheetpan Chicken (Penguin Random House, September 2020). Her work has been featured in the New York Times, The Washington Post, Bon Appétit, NPR, Food & Wine Magazine, Eater, and Epicurious. She has also been a reporter for NPR, StoryCorps, The Splendid Table, WNYC, PRI’s The World, The Southern Foodways Alliance, Colorlines, and Feet in 2 Worlds.

  • Rob Dunn

    Robert Dunn is a biologist, writer and professor in the Department of Applied Ecology at North Carolina State University. He has written several books and his science essays have appeared at magazines such as BBC Wildlife Magazine, Scientific American, Smithsonian Magazine, National Geographic and others.

  • Meenakshi J

    She is a freelance writer and blogger from Hyderabad, but based in India’s capital —Delhi, for now. In her pre-nuptial avatar, she had worked as a technical mentor and analyst in the IT sector, for a few years. Much later, she donned the mantle of a lecturer inspiring teens to fall in love with Shakespeare and George Bernard Shaw, while also tussling between War and Peace!

    She holds a graduate degree in Microbiology, Biochemistry, Chemistry and Science education, and a post graduate degree in English. She also hold a Diploma in Business Management (DBM) and a Post-Graduate Certificate in Teaching English (PGCTE), apart from a Certificate in Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages (CELTA) from Cambridge University.

  • Vidya Balachander

    Vidya Balachander is an award-winning food writer and editor presently based in Dubai. Vidya's writing explores the intersection of food and anthropology, and she is interested in understanding how communities and geopolitics can be viewed through the lens of food. In the last 15 years as a journalist, Vidya has worked with a number of Indian and international media houses, and you can find her bylines on Saveur, NPR, LitHub and CNN's Parts Unknown, among other publications.

  • Vanessa Mota

    Born and raised in the Dominican Republic, she came to the U.S. with her mom at the age of 14. As a teenager and young woman living in New York City, she became interested in tasting the great variety of cuisines from different countries that New York had to offer, but always maintaining her passion for traditional Dominican food. This is how she learned about food.

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Episode 3: How Cactus is Used for Fashion, Fuel, and Food

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Episode 5: Meet Cilantro's Tropical Cousin: Culantro