Episode 2 -
The heart-shaped tuber that created humankind
Taro is the basis of many Polynesian creation stories and one of the world's oldest food crops. In fact, it is so important that the Polynesians carried it with them on their boats as they migrated across the Pacific Ocean. Every part of the plant can be eaten, from the leaves to the tuber, and back in the day, a healthy taro patch meant a clean and vibrant waterway.
In this episode of Climate Cuisine, Clarissa chats with:
Arthur Wierzchos, a taro enthusiast who moved from Hawai’i to Taiwan, where he is a member of the permaculture scene
Lance Seeto, an Australian-Chinese chef based in Fiji, who specializes in regional Fijian cuisine
Ryan Nebeker, a research and policy analyst from Food Print (@foodprintorg), an organization dedicated to increasing public awareness of our current industrial food print
Here are some highlights:
Taro in Folklore
Arthur narrates the creation story of Hawai’i, in which taro plays an important role as the brother of man.
Characteristics of Taro
Clarissa and Arthur describe the physical characteristics of taro. A plant with a number of varieties, taro can come in colors ranging from purple to white. Its heart-shaped leaves run the gamut from wide to narrow.
Then they cover the itchy, stinging reason why you should never eat taro raw.
Ways to Prepare and Cook Taro in the Pacific Islands
Lance names some of the varied ways that taro—from leaf to tuber—is prepared in the Pacific Islands. He describes a dish that involves peeling then boiling the stems in coconut milk, as well as a tourist-popular preparation that involves stuffing then baking the leaves in an earth oven.
Challenges to Taro Cultivation
Lance reflects on the increasing prices of taro due to climate change. What used to be a commonplace ingredient for indigenous Fijians has now become a delicacy.
Clarissa provides some history on how capitalism and colonization have transformed the taro industry. She reveals, “Before colonization, 600 heirloom varieties of taro used to grow on the islands… Today, only 60 of those varieties remain.”
The Importance of the Food Print
Ryan reminds us not to forget that we don’t always see the entire cost of our food. When food is cheap, it’s often because someone else is paying for it, whether because of a government subsidy or because of labor exploitation.
Even though buying better products is not a solution to all problems, from a consumer standpoint, Ryan encourages us to do so to at least help chip away at the difference.
Ways of Growing Taro
Ryan points out that almost any crop can be grown sustainably or unsustainably. Taro is no different. Yet, when done right, farming taro can be productive for the ecosystem.
Then Ryan explains the difference between upland and wetland taro.
Taro’s Importance Amid Climate Change
Considering how climate change has led to rising sea levels and increased flooding in many places, Arthur shares knowledge on a variety of taro in Hawai’i that does better in higher salt conditions.
The episode ends on a hopeful note, with Arthur saying that because taro is so adaptable, it is entirely possible for it to be developed to suit the needs of a particular micro-climate or community.
Guests
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Arthur Wierzchos
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Chef Lance Seeto
Lance Seeto is an multi award-winning Australian chef, travel writer, TV host & Fiji's culinary ambassador.
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Ryan Nebeker
Ryan Nebeker is the Research and Policy Analyst for FoodPrint.