Black Material Geographies - Episode 5

Colonialism's Afterlife & Upcyling Fashion, Pt. 1

In this episode of Black Material Geographies, join Teju as she speaks with:

• Johnathan Curry

• Chloe Asaam, Ghanian designer and programs manager for The OR Foundation

Let’s Talk About Fast Fashion Waste

• Only about 15% of textiles in the US are recycled. The are thrown in either landfills across the states, or sent to countries in Africa and the Caribbean (i.e: Ghana and Haiti)

• The US also trashes over 11 million tons of textiles per year at the expense of nearby Black and Brown communities.

Cultural Imperialism Affecting Haiti

• Johnathan describes the ways in which colonialism and imperialism are similar and notes how imperialism exists to expand capitalism in less powerful countries.

• We learn about second-hand clothing sent from the US to Haiti (called pepe) which originated within the Kennedy administration.

• The existence of pepe in Haiti imposes cultural imperialism of the US as it places Western clothing as more “desirable” and “valuable” than traditional Haitian garments

• Johnathan recounts the history of the US’ exploitation of Haiti after gaining independence: from seizing its gold reserve to introducing Jim Crow laws. All efforts to destabilize the local Haitian economy and textile industry under the guise of “peace and order”

Defining Sustainable Design

• We learn how over seven million Western garments end up in the streets and waterways of Ghana.

• In efforts to combat Western second-hand clothing, Ghanian citizens are upcycling these garments.

• Chloe explains the difficulty in defining genuine sustainable designing on a macro scale, because of  the influx larger brands feigning circular and sustainable clothing lines

• Want to design garments sustainably? Chloe states that designers should consider three factors, 1) size and scale of the market 2) how much you’re producing & 3) the full life cycle of the garment

• Chloe shares her hope for younger audiences diverting away from the monster that fast fashion has become, as the existence is rooted in exploitation, forced labor, and disconnection.